CAMBODIA FACTS

Capital
The Capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia is Phnom Penh. 

Size
Inland area: 181,035 Km²
Length: 450 Km
Width: 580 km at the widest point. 

Geographical Situation
Located on the eastern coast of the South-East Asian Indochinese Peninsula, Cambodia shares its borders with Thailand to the West, Thailand and Laos to the North, Vietnam to the East and the Gulf of Thailand to the Southeast. The country has a coastline of 435 km and the two dominant topographies vary from coastal plains to mountain ranges. 

Population
Cambodia has 14 million inhabitants with an average density of 78 inhabitants/Km2. The most populated province and also the largest is Khompong Cham, where 14.1% of Cambodians live.
90% of the population is ethnic Khmer (Cambodian).. The rest of the population is made up of Chinese, Vietnamese, Muslim Chams and hill tribe minorities in the Eastern part of the country.
The dominant religion is Theravada Buddhism. 

Language
Khmer is the official language and English is generally spoken and understood everywhere.
A guide is, however duly recommended as language can be a problem outside the main cities for people who have no knowledge of the Khmer language. 

Currency
Though Riel (KHr) is the official currency, US dollar is indeed the common currency in Cambodia. Many businesses, especially hotels, airlines, restaurants, souvenirs shops, set their prices in USD and all the expenses can be paid in USD even the minor ones. In the West of the country, use of Thai Baht is also commonplace.
At the time of writing exchange rate is US$ 1 = 4000 Riel, and 1 Euro = 4800 Riel (January 2011). You can change Euros into USD, though the exchange rate is not as good as in Europe.
There is no need to change your USD into local currency. Small bank notes of 10 or 20 US dollars are enough. Against payment in USD, the change will be given back to you in local currency as there is no USD cents in Cambodia.
Traveller's cheques can be cashed only at major banks and usually incur a 2 to 5% transaction fee.
Visa, Master cards, JCB, CCB and American Express are accepted in top-end hotels, restaurants and shops in the main cities of Cambodia, such as Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, but can also be subject to 2 to 3% transaction fees.
ATM (cash dispenser) are now available everywhere in the main towns (visa, mastercard). You can withdraw cash in USD only - a transaction fees may apply. Withdrawal can be done everywhere. ATM from the ANZ bank are notably available in souvenir shops and in most of the service stations Caltex.

Banks are usually opened from 08h00 to 15h30 from Monday to Friday. Only a few banks are opened half-day on Saturday.

The best advice is to bring US Dollars in cash. Note that exchange rates for small and big notes vary, however we would recommend you to bring some small notes to cope with the first expenses and then to carry small riel for minor expenses. 500 and 1000 riel are the most useful denominations.Be careful, banks and foreign exchange offices do not usually take old, scribbled or even stained bank notes. 

Climate
Cambodia has a tropical monsoon climate with two seasons: dry from October to May and rainy from June to October. During the rainy season it usually rains only in the evening or very early in the morning. Temperatures are warm all year long.

 

PNH*	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Min °C	21	22	23	24	24	24	24	25	25	24	23	22
Max °C	31	32	34	35	34	33	32	32	31	30	30	30
Rain mm	8	10	41	77	135	156	170	161	224	258	126	45

Local Time
Cambodia is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. 

Electricity
In Cambodia electric current is mostly 220V. Sockets are generally of the round two-pin type. Three-pin plug adaptors can usually be found at local markets in Phnom Penh.

Due to its limited power supply, power cuts are frequent, but most hotels and restaurants in the main cities have their own generators.

Water
It is advisable not to drink water from the tap unless it is boiled properly.

Telecommunications
The telecommunication network includes satellite, landline, mobile, Internet cafes, radios system and GSM (check with you home provider if roaming is permitted). Otherwise you can buy a telephone card via the local telephone provider M-Phone against 15 USD for around 25 minutes of call to a foreign country. International phone calls can be made from the main post offices, private business centres and hotels. Public phone booths can also be found in the main post offices, hotels and restaurants.

Health & Medical Facilities
Pnoculation for yellow fever is a legal requirement for entry into Cambodia by people coming from an infected area. There is otherwise no vaccination required, but visitors are advised to receive inoculations against hepatitis A and B, typhoid and tetanus, as to make sure of whether anti malaria treatment is necessary depending on the region they travel to. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have good hospitals staffed with foreign medical personnel, however for life threatening injury it is advisable to be evacuated to Bangkok or Singapore and we therefore strongly recommended to take out medical travel insurance.

Transportation
There are two international airports in Cambodia: Phnom Penh International Airport located 20 minutes from the town centre and Siem Reap airport, 7 km from the heart of the town.
Road networks have improved but still need to be upgraded in some areas. To cover a distance, it is reasonable to count an average speed of 50 km / hour.
By speedboat, it takes 6 hours from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Journey not recommended for elderly persons and group.
Helicopter sightseeing in Angkor has become available using safe helicopters flown by qualified pilots.

 

Driving
In Cambodia, we drive on the right side.
International Driving license is valid. Your national driving licence is not valid.Only owners of a Cambodian driving license are allowed to drive a car. However we recommend not to drive in Cambodia.
Renting a motorbike is possible in Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville but not in Siem Reap. For security reasons, we not recommend it in Phnom Penh for inexperienced drivers.

 

Cooking
Cambodian food is closely related to the cuisines of neighbouring Thailand and Laos and, to a lesser extent, Vietnam, but there are however some distinct local dishes. The overall consensus is that Khmer cooking is like Thai without being as spicy.
Curries, stir fried vegetables, rice, noodles and soups are staples of the Khmer diet. Sea food and fish are both abundant and delicious. Cambodia is well known in the region for its Prahok, a strong, fermented fish paste used in a variety of traditional dishes.

Shopping
In Cambodia all sorts of goods and manufactured products can be found. From antiques, silver items, jewellery and gems, to silk Cambodia offers a large range of beautiful handicraft products.
Prices displayed are usually fixed, but in other cases, bargaining is recommended.

Tipping
Tipping is not mandatory although it is appreciated. Note that prices in hotels and restaurants usually include 10% for VAT and 5% for service charges.

Tags: Cambodia Tours, Travel Cambodia, Cambodia Hotels

CAMBODIA TRAVEL TIPS

Access
Please find below a list of carriers offering services into Cambodia:

• Air Asia
• Asiana Airlines
• Bangkok Airways
• Cambodia Angkor Air
• China Airlines
• China Eastern Airlines
• China Southern Airlines 
• Dragon Air
• Eastern Airlines MU
• Eva Air
• JetStar Asia
• Korean Air
• Lao Aviation
• Malaysia Airlines
• Shanghai Airlines
• Siem Reap Airways International
• Silk Air
• Thai Airways
• Vietnam Airlines

Cambodia can also be reached by water and the two international gateway are Sihanouk International Seaport and the Phnom Penh International port. However visa upon arrival are only available at Phnom Penh International port. 

Visa and Passport
A visa is compulsory to enter Cambodia except for citizens of the Philippines, Singapore, Vietnam, Laos, Malaysia and Thailand. To obtain a visa, you must first ensure your passport will be valid for at least 6 months after your return date.

There are 3 options at the moment to obtain a visa for Cambodia:
You can obtain your visa on arrival at the international checkpoints of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports. Visa upon arrival are also available for people arriving overland from Thailand at Koh Kong, Poi Pet, O’Smach and Pailin checkpoints and from Vietnam at Chau Doc and Bavet-Moc Bai checkpoints.
For people arriving from Laos at Veungkham semi-official border crossing, both Lao and Cambodian visas must be arranged prior to arrival. Identity pictures are required (click here to download the form to fill out).

• Visas can be acquired directly at Cambodian Embassies and Consulates abroad (click here to have the list).
• You can apply via the official website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Kingdom of Cambodia (http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/) to obtain an electronic visa.
   
   Tags: Cambodia Tours, Travel Cambodia, Cambodia Hotels

MYANMAR TRAVEL TIPS

Access
Please find below a list of carriers offering services into Myanmar:

• Air China
• Biman Airlines
• China Eastern Airlines
• Druk Air
• Eva Air
• Indian Airlines
• Malaysia Airlines
• Mandarin Airlines
• Myanmar Airways International
• Phuket Airlines
• Silk Air
• Thai Airways
• Vietnam Airlines

Please note that travellers coming from Europe or America will have to transit via Bangkok and Singapore in most cases.

Visa and Passport
A visa is compulsory to enter Myanmar. To obtain a visa, you must first ensure your passport will be valid for at least 6 months after your return date.
There are 1 options at the moment to obtain a visa for Myanmar:
Visas can be acquired directly at Myanmar Embassies and Consulates abroad
Please note that visas are currently valid for 28 days. 

Before Your departure
You will indeed take off your shoes when visiting pagoda, temple and monastery, you will do so often and laced shoes are not suitable. Instead, take the shoes "vessel" in which you are comfortable. Beware of blisters which ruin the days of walking. The Burmese shoe flip flops, you'll find for 1000k, but the sizes are generally too small for our European stands.
As a general rule, keep in mind that Myanmar remains steeped in tradition in many ways. It is recommended you adopt a respectful attitude towards traditions and the ancestral culture of this country.
Please pack mosquito repellent and a cap or a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, a raincoat and a travel first aid kit (containing an antiseptic cream, aspirin or paracetamol, bandages).
Travel in Myanmar presents little risk, but it would be best to leave your valuables at home. 

Tags: Myanmar Tours, Myanmar Travel, Myanmar Hotels

MYANMAR FACTS

Capital
The capital of Myanmar is Yangon, with a population of 5 million. 

Size
Inland area: 678,500 Km²
Myanmar is the largest country of South-East Asia.

Geographical Situation
Myanmar is located on the Bengal Gulf, between 94° and 98° longitude and 10° and 28° North latitude, bordered by Thailand on the west, by Laos and China on the north-east and India and Bangladesh on the north-west.
The southern part of the country is flat, fed by many rivers; the largest one, the Irrawaddy, formed by two rivers, the Mekha and the Malikha, which rise in the counter forts of the Himalayas, flows through spectacular gorges, tropical jungles and terraced paddy fields to the Bay of Bengal.
The Irrawaddy is the heartbeat of Myanmar and is the most viable means of access to many of the country's attractions. 

Population
Myanmar has 48 million inhabitants with an average density of 70,7 inhabitants/km2.
68% of the population is Burmese, 9% Shan, 7% Karen, 4% Rakhine, 3% Chinese, 2% Mon and 2% Indian. Ethnic minorities make up the rest of the population of Myanmar. 

Religion
The principal religion of Myanmar is Buddhism (89 %), but it is a curious amalgam of several beliefs and practices containing elements of Buddhism, Christianity, Islam and Hinduism. As is the case in many countries, be careful when discussing religion, especially in the presence of people with a good command of your language.

Politics
As for religion, it is advisable to refrain from discussing politics except in very broad terms. However people are increasingly open to discussion, although preferably in privacy.  

Language
There are more than 100 ethnic groups in Myanmar, all with their own language or dialect, tradition and culture. The majority of the population speak Burmese, the official language and English is widely spoken. However communication and the understanding of local traditions can pose a problem beyond the major cities. The presence of a guide able to speak several languages is highly recommended

 

Currency
The official currency is the Kyat (MMK) but US dollars are accepted everywhere. Current notes are: ks 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 bank notes.
At the time of writing exchange rate is US$ 1 = 890 Kyat (March 2011)), (January 2011, please note that this can change significantly on a daily basis).
We advise you not to change money at the airport, as the exchange rate is always lower than market rates. Please be aware that our team will be able to help you to change your money at a proper rate. Travellers cheques can pose a problem as they are rarely accepted. 

 

No credit card is accepted
We therefore recommend all tourists visiting Myanmar to bring cash in USD, because currently it is the only foreign currency which is accepted.

Climate
The best time of year to visit Myanmar is from mid October to the beginning of March. At this time, the climate is mild and dry. Temperatures can however be very low at altitude and especially at night. This is the case for Inle Lake. The hottest time of year is from March to mid May and the rainy season lasts from mid May to the beginning of October. We would suggest you avoid the months of May and June, which are hot and humid. In July, August and September, the humidity is generally high in Yangon. It is less so in the northern regions (Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake). 

Mandalay	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Min °C	13	15	20	25	27	27	27	26	25	24	20	15
Max °C	28	31	36	38	37	34	34	33	32	31	30	28
Rain mm	5	10	12	43	162	165	83	106	147	132	62	19

Yangon	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Min °C	18	19	21	24	25	25	24	24	24	25	22	19
Max °C	31	34	36	37	33	30	29	29	30	31	31	31
Rain mm	4	10	21	45	296	469	540	517	358	183	36	18

Local Time
Myanmar is 6 hours 30 minutes ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. 

Electricity
In Myanmar the «standard»electrical current is 220V, but sockets are not always standard. It is highly recommended that you take an international adapter with you.
Due to its limited power supply, the country suffers from frequent power cuts - and over voltage, but most hotels and restaurants in the major cities have their own generators.

Water
As in many countries, it is not advisable to drink water from the tap unless it has been boiled beforehand.

 

Telecommunications
International phone call charges from Myanmar are very expensive (from 5 to 10 USD per minute for Europe). If you need to call from a hotel, it is advisable to check and have confirmed the price before making the call (“surprises” can be very costly !).

Tags: Myanmar Tours, Myanmar Travel, Myanmar Hotels

Lost in Laos (and first white guy)

We had lost the trail a long time ago and I for one had no idea where we were going and neither did my guide. If the local guide had a clue he wasn’t sharing, so that’s two out of three at least.

We weren’t lost lost, none of us had lost our sense of direction or anything. The road from Thailand was still over there, the Mekong somewhere in front and China way in back. I’ve been getting lost since I was eight or nine in woods not so different than these. Things have been worse in this life, at least we were standing on solid ground, it was warm enough, we had water.

Crossing the Nam Fa

It was certainly no where near as bad as I’d had it a couple years before not thirty kilometers from where we now wandered. At that time we’d ended up just heading in the direction of a road. This time we were a lot further from a road, but we were not too far from the village we’d slept in.

My guide Tui who is actually the director of Tourism in the prefecture wasn’t too pleased. He figured I’d be perturbed. I wasn’t, other than the inconvenience I was ok. Long walks into untraveled areas with inexperienced guides often end up with some wrong turns along the way. Maybe I should start at the beginning.

For anyone wishing to read about the walks leading up to this day, below are links to what are the preceding stories about this walk.
Long Time Traveler Muang Long
One Day Trecks In The Vacinity of Muang Long
Lahu Night Out
The Trail To Nambo
Hmong House
Further Into The Forest
Ban Nam Hee

We’d gotten a slow start leaving Ban Nam Hee. Tui went and adjusted the antenna for the kids watching TV, no one in the village knew how to adjust the satellite TV. The school master awoke blinking in the sunlight, last night’s drinking session had taken it’s toll. I guess the teacher was a little out of control, they needed a new one. School is kind of important to a village with 100% illiteracy. Not one single person could read or write other than the schoolmaster the government had sent.

By the time we moseyed down and crossed the river it was mid day. The river was the Nam Fa, we crossed it just below the junction of the Nam Hee. There was a raft on the other side. Our local guide shed his clothes, swam over, and poled across to get us. We didn’t even take our shoes off so to save time. Photo above

Once across the river we followed the main trail for only a short way before diverging on a less traveled path. The fainter trail headed steeply uphill until we left the immediate river valley. As it gained elevation the trail became more difficult to see.

Sometimes trails get grown over due to a lack of use. That wasn’t the case here, this trail was progressively more faint. Tui remarked how when locals walk off trail in the woods they often break small seedlings pointing the broken top in the direction of travel. Then he did just that, and so did I feeling slightly silly. Eventually we were just walking in the woods. Once in a while Tui or the local guide would hack at a creeper with their long knives.

When the understory became thicker and the hill steeper slowing us down to a very slow pace, I asked Tui if we just maybe ought to call it a day. Go back to the village we knew and start anew the next day. Neither the local guide nor Tui wanted anything to do with that, big loss of face on returning to the village.

I don’t know how we ended up taking the route we had, I’d been more or less passively tagging along, I guess it was as much my fault as anyone else. I was the oldest, and though these were the woods and hills of our local guide I should have quizzed him more about where we were headed before starting out. To tell the truth I didn’t have three words in common with the young fellow. Tui was communicating using Lu I assumed, but I think our local guide’s command of the Lu language was extremely limited. The chance of him speaking any Lao or even being able to use the words in common between Lu and Lao was about zero. Heck even young American guys his age usually speak using grunts and snorts.

After discussion our local guide changed direction almost 180 degrees. Instead of heading straight back the way we’d come he was cutting sidehill towards the east.

We slid  down a hill too steep for the soil to cling, into a creek bottom, and began following that back towards the river. Large trees that had fallen formed natural bridges back and forth across the creek. Sometimes we were under them, sometimes over, and sometimes walking along the tops of the logs, it was off of one of them that I fell for the first time.

It was a slick log that had lost it’s bark, slippery from all the moisture of the stream bed, and slimy with rot.  Easy enough if one is careful to balance and not trust to the friction of your soles. The distance was very short, maybe three or at most four feet. I landed flat footed if straight legged on a rock. One second I’m on the log the next second I’m standing on a rock.

Ten minutes later I tripped on a vine and sprawled downhill face first into the rocky stream bed, again unhurt.

I decided to take a break and slow down. Getting lost is ok, getting hurt isn’t.

We continued to splash down the stream bed for a while before cutting uphill on the opposite side. Tui didn’t enjoy walking in wet tennis shoes. My boots worked pretty much the same wet or dry, and the guide had a pair of little rubber shoes. I’d also been having problems with a blister on my left foot but it seemed to stop hurting after a couple hours walking.

When we came to the worn trail again our pace picked up considerably. To this day I’ve no idea why we didn’t take it in the first place. Maybe there were fields we weren't supposed to see.
Sorry about the lack of photos on this day, I was mostly trying to keep up.
The trail cut up the same hill we’d been headed up before only at a more moderate incline. I was able to push myself as fast as possible without worry of tripping up. The afternoon was waning. As we worked our way around the south side of what must have been a large flat mountain and descended down that side Tui started a conversation first with the local guide then with me.

First he confirmed with me that I thought Ban Jakune was on the other side of the Nam Fa. (Jakune town on other side of Fa River) I thought it strange to state the obvious. Without even conscious thought there was a little map in my head as there must have been in Tui’s. We’d already crossed over the Nam Fa above where it curved to the south and up ahead somewhere we’d have to recross and climb the long hill to Jakune. I’d been to Jakune twice and Tui had been there probably three or four times. We were both in a part of the countryside we’d never been in before but we both knew the general lay of the land.

What was perplexing to Tui was that according to our local guide we’d be soon starting up another hill and towards the top of that would be Jakune, without re crossing the Nam Fa. Myself I had no problem with this seeming bit of illogic. No matter to me if Jakune had been moved lock stock and barrel miles over the river and plonked down on the wrong side, if they had a place for me to sleep I was fine. Tui continued to push and prod at the idea like a sore tooth that he just couldn’t leave alone. He knew something wasn’t right but for the moment we were just walking along a trail in the forest, and the only thing to do is keep walking.

Triple canopy forest is always half in twilight, to take a photo I’m always having to slow the shutter way down or bump up the ASA on my small sensor camera. When evening comes it comes quickly and it comes completely. Full night is darker than the inside of a cow’s belly, not even the tiniest bit of starlight can enter. Thankfully as dark began to come on in earnest we entered the outskirts of the village. With the vague outlines of houses visible our local guide made a beeline to the house of the headman. Tui whispered one more time, “this isn’t Jakune”.

After the how dee doos we were invited to stay the night. Setting his pack inside Tui and the local guide took off to try to buy a chicken or other food and I sat inside with the headman and some other old fellows. To break the silence I volunteered that we’d come from Ban Nam Hee that morning. Someone asked how many hours the walk had taken us, probably wondering why we were arriving so late from a half day’s walk. At least a couple of these guys could speak Lao.

I asked if this was Jakune, and they said yes. I’d been absolutely clear and asked about Jakune Mai or “New Jakune” as I know Jakune old town had been abandoned. So I told them I’d come to their town two years ago, to which the headman responded that that would have been impossible, my current visit was the first time a “falang” had ever come to their village. Falang means Caucasian.

I was both very amused and confused at the same time. Confused because the town is named Jakune yet it’s not Jakune of the world I inhabit. Amused because of “the first white guy” thing.

Amongst tourists looking to leave the beaten path, going where no other traveler has gone is the holly grail. In the larger scheme of things it’s unimportant whether some other foreigner has been to a village or not. One is as able to immerse oneself in the rhythms and flavor of local culture in a soi off Sukumvit in Bangkok just as well. The experience has more to do with the tourist than the setting. It’s all too common that an expat living in a country for years never learns to eat the food or speak the language.

When Tui returned with the local guide it was also with a request to pay off the local guide. The young guy was interested in sharing a chicken and some white liquor with new found friends in the village.

I told Tui, “they say this is Jakune but it’s not”. Tui reminded me that he had been saying the same for half the day. Over dinner and talking we pieced together the puzzle.

For unknown reasons Jakune Gao (old Jakune) which is now an abandoned village halfway down the side of Phou Mon Lem had split in two. Most of the families had established the Jakune Mai (new Jakune) we knew of, which was still a long day’s walk away. A large number of families had moved to the village we were now at. People call it new Jakune as it is inhabited by people from old Jakune but more correctly it is known as Ban Huay Poong in Lu language. I think huay means creek or stream or something. Someone is bound to read this and correct me.

Another day passed, somewhere in the watershed of the Nam Fa.

Breakfast with Naiban Ban Huay Poong, local guide on right, note the traditional jackets worn by the local guide (embroidery on sleeve) and the Naiban.

Martin Stuart Fox on Recent Politics in Laos

I was pretty surprised to see anything written about the recent sudden change of prime ministers in Laos. Usually discussions of politics is limited to pre Lan Xan kingdoms for fear of controversy.

Here's the link with a hat tip to Lao FAB

Family Problems

Former PM Bouasone Bouphavanh

I couldn't always keep all the names straight when trying to make heads or tales of the article. Eventually I began to understand the whole dustup is likely between competing corrupt factions fighting over who is going to make off with the spoils.

One part that had me thinking was the reference to pressure on the Lao Army to stop cutting and selling forests. Another interesting part was that most of the players are "southerners". When I hear the Lao Army and logging spoken in the same paragraph I think General Cheng, who must be somewhere in his 70s by now if not older.

Must be quite the scramble to see who can sell Laos to the Chinese the quickest. You can only sell a country once, and once it's sold there will be no more to resell.

General Vang Pao passes

Not much to say, I hadn't heard until this morning.

General Vang Pao one of the major players in the Indochina warn in Laos passed away due to heart failure a couple of days ago.

A national hero to the Hmong diaspora and a friend to America, his adopted country, not so well liked by his old adversaries. I hope he is resting peacefully tonight.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/08/world/asia/08vangpao.html